Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Why I Love Zion National Park

I have been to Zion National Park dozens of times.  My parents grew up in southern Utah and we visited family there several times a year.  My dad LOVES Zion and at least once a year he would load his own children plus three or four cousins into the van and take us for a day in Zion.  I didn't realize until I was an adult what a brave (or really mellow) man he was. It became one of my favorite places and as an adult I have continued the Zion tradition with my family. We still visit Zion as a family every year.
Between Lower and Middle Emerald Pools
When to Go


Zion National Park is open year-round. The winter months are less crowded and the contrast of snow on the red rock is a gorgeous sight. You will be able to drive your own vehicle in the park instead of using the shuttle and hotels will offer the best rates of the year. The downside of winter is that it could be cold and many of the trails will be closed, so some of the most spectacular views will be inaccessible.

Summer is peak season. Temperatures can top 100 degrees. However, there is a reasonable amount of shade in the park and there are several family-friendly trails where you can play in the water, so as long as you bring plenty of water and sunscreen you can beat the heat.  If you camp (we don't), summer is a great time to camp inside the park as long as you get a space early.

My favorite times to visit Zion National Park are spring and fall.  The weather is warm, but not too hot and it is the best time for hiking.  There are a few waterfalls in the park and spring is the best time to see them.  During school breaks, the park will be as crowded as in the summer, but other weeks, you probably won't have to share it with as many people.

Where to Stay


There are a lodge and campsites inside Zion National Park, but the lodge is a little expensive for us and we do not camp, so we always stay outside the park.  The town of Springdale is situated immediately outside the park and offers several hotels and B&Bs for visitors.  If you are staying during the shuttle season (April-October) you will be close enough use the town shuttle, walk, or bicycle directly into the park.  However, you will pay more for the convenience.  The city of Hurricane (pronounced HUR-i-kun) is about a 20 minute drive from Zion and you can find a few budget motels there. The cities of St. George and Cedar City are about an hour's drive from the park in opposite directions and you will find many lodging options in either of them. St. George is the larger of the two. Cedar City and St. George are both along I-15 and make good bases if Zion is only one part of your vacation plans.

The Shuttle


Weeping Rock
There are three sections of Zion National Park that are accessible by car, but between April and October, you must use the shuttle to see Zion Canyon, which is the most popular - and my favorite - section. The shuttle system started in 1997 to address the problem of increasing traffic on the two lane, dead-end road that runs through Zion Canyon. Before the shuttle, the traffic was thick and finding parking spaces at the various stops was nearly impossible. The shoulders of the road were overflowing with parked cars during the peak season. It was no way to experience such a wonderful place. With the shuttle, the park is a peaceful place again. The shuttles arrive frequently and can be packed during peak times, but once you get off, there is plenty of room for everyone. If you are travelling to Zion during the summer or school break, arrive early to get a parking space at the Visitor Center. On a busy day, all the spaces inside the park will be gone before 10:00 am and then you will need to park outside the gates or in town.  If you have to park in town, you can take the town shuttle to get to the park and then walk in to take the park shuttle. Obviously, you'll need to pack everything you need for the day with you. If you want to take a stroller, there are lots of paved, family-friendly trails in the park and it's a good way to haul everything. However, if you're there on a busy day, you may need to fold it every time you get onto the shuttle, which may be crowded.


Zion Lodge Lawn


Favorite Family Hikes


For as many times as I have visited Zion National Park, I still haven't seen it all.  But, I do have a few favorites that I visit every time and many of these are great for families with young children.  The Visitor Center is the place to start.  The first shuttle stop is here and it's a good place to let the kids run around while you top off the water bottles, make sure everyone has stopped at the bathroom and get an idea of what you would like to do for the day.  This is also the place to get Junior Ranger information for the kids.  Many of the national parks (and some Utah state parks) have Junior Ranger programs and Zion's is the only one we've done that isn't free.  It was still only $2-$3 per child and they received a patch instead of a plastic badge.  You can either get on the shuttle here or take the Pa'rus Trail to Canyon Junction.  This trail is under two miles one-way and is wide, paved, and flat. It is a nice nature walk and is good for bikes. I enjoy it, but I wouldn't call it a top priority. The next stop of note is the Zion Lodge. This is a great stop when you are ready for lunch. There is a large lawn for picnics. There is also a snack bar and a restaurant.  We have both packed our lunch in and ordered from the snack bar. Bringing your own is more economical, but if you are already packing diapers, wipes, extra clothing, water, snacks and a baby in your backpack, there's no shame in buying lunch.

On Pa'rus Trail

Across from the lodge is the Emerald Pools trail head. There are three pools. The trail to the lower pool is .6 mile one-way and is paved. You could take a stroller to the lower pool but no further. The Middle Pool is a short but rugged hike up and is the least interesting of the three pools. The Upper Pool is .3 miles beyond that and it is a rugged uphill hike, but most school-age kids should be able to do it without much trouble. The Upper Pool is surrounded by sheer red rock cliffs and during some of the year, a waterfall pours into it. It is shady and spectacular. My daughter has been here twice and has managed to step or fall into the water both times, so plan accordingly.

Weeping Rock


A couple of shuttle stops down is my favorite childhood hike, Weeping Rock. It is .5 mile round-trip, mostly uphill going there and downhill back.  It is paved and stroller-friendly except for a short flight of steps at the end. There is a place you could park the stroller instead of carrying it up. For most of the year, water seeps through the sandstone and drips in front of the patio that has been carved out of the rock. There is also a fantastic view of the canyon from this patio. The patio is pleasantly cool in the summer and you may get dripped on. As a toddler, my daughter jumped in a puddle and splashed everyone in the vicinity with mud. The reason it is my favorite is that when my dad brought us all when we were young, he let us play in the stream at the bottom of the trail for hours. Unfortunately for my kids, I am always too worried about seeing it all.


At Temple of Sinewava
The last stop on the shuttle line is the Temple of Sinewava. This wide paved trail takes you to the Virgin River and the entrance to the Narrows.  The Narrows is 16 miles one-way.  If the weather is clear (flash floods are a danger), your children are older, you have good footwear, and you don't mind getting wet, you can hike into the Narrows and then turn around at the Orderville Canyon junction or sooner.  Otherwise, splash around or soak your feet in the cool water at the end of the trail.  If you don't want to walk the trail, there are places where you can do the same thing near the shuttle stop.  The river can run fast, so use good judgement when letting your children near it.

Entrance to Zion National Park is $25 per car and is good for one week. It is one of the most accessible parks I have seen for families with young children. Zion also has many trails for more adventurous hikers and I know some who make pilgrimages to the Narrows or Subway hikes every year because they are that special. One online dictionary defines "Zion" as "heaven as the final gathering place of true believers". I am a true believer in Zion National Park and I invite you to become one too.



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